October 14 | Delhi

Day of travel. Did my best to sleep on the 3.5 hour layovers in DFW and JFK. Also did my best to stay awake on the 13 hour flight to Delhi, but was not successful.

Saying goodbye at the airport

Note to self: don't exchange more money than you have to at the airport—paid $46 for a $450 withdrawal. Robbery.

Took some time to figure out my phone e-sim and uber. Got to the hostel at 1:30 AM. Realizing it's ok to fly by the seat of your pants—just pay for the hostel when you arrive. Also jet lag helped me not be cranky at 1 AM. Fun to weave in and out of traffic.

Met nice man, Toni, in JFK. Wants me to call him in Delhi.

October 15 | Delhi

Woke up and checked the info on my flight to Dharamshala only to discover it had been canceled. Who knows how long ago because I didn't receive an email about that. Well, I ended up calling/texting Toni much sooner than I thought I would. He jumped into action telling me to catch a rickshaw and put the driver on the phone to get directions. I love the pace of driving. Weaving in and out just to get ahead. Cars driving on the wrong side. Constant horns.

Toni took me to a travel agency and helped me arrange an overnight bus that could still get me to my appointment with the Dalai Lama. After that he took me to breakfast and then to various money changers to get the best rate. Our conversations were interspersed with bits of advice like "don't keep all your money in the same place," and him taking very animated phone calls. What started as a few quick errands turned into a whole day. We met up with his cousin Harpal and we all went to the Eritrean embassy where they were trying to get visas. I was mostly confused about where we went, they were happy to have me and I just followed along. I ended up helping a lot with the visas. I had to help them fill out forms so I know they have no education—I guess they didn't know how to write. We then went to an Internet cafe where I typed up CVs and intent forms for both of them. Afterward we all went to KFC, which they love.

There's a language barrier but we talked about lives, the crazy amount of travel Toni has done (not clear how or why), how they want to visit me in the USA. Also waved at Toni's kids and friends on FaceTime. He was excited to tell people about his American friend. It was crazy to me that we went from just meeting to them graciously taking me around, feeding me, paying for taxis, etc.

Harpal kept telling me how humble and good man I am. Also how Indian women are most beautiful and in India priorities are: be happy, make babies. "That's why there's so many people" he said with a laugh.

I'm struck by how there's normal looking, even business casual people walking around in such a dirty chaotic place.

October 16 | Dharamshala

Winding roads and fitful night sleep on the bus. Made it to Dalai Lama temple right on time. Apparently I was part of a special group that met His Holiness first—I think we were all the Americans haha. It was a quick greeting. He took my hand in his soft warm hands and pressed it to his forehead. There was a couple monks with cameras standing on either side snapping pictures. His Holiness was surrounded by staff that helped facilitate the greetings and move the line along.

Meeting the Dalai Lama

Explored the temple and saw monks doing daily chants and a nice nun motioned to me to sit next to her and join in. I was there for almost two hours, but they make it bearable by serving rice pudding, bread, and warm butter tea.

In town I discovered a wonderful Tibetan history library and volunteered teaching English to monks at the Learning in Tibet community center. I love seeing monks on iPhones. It was interesting. That English class was on habits—apparently watching Netflix and social media are common bad habits they're working on too.

I went back to the Tibetan library and met a guy, Gokul, who was teaching two monks how to read literature, like a miniature AP lit class on metaphor and symbolism. I stuck around until they finished so I could talk to him. Gokul came here three years ago and never left. I get it. After Delhi, this is so quiet and peaceful.

October 17 | Dharamshala

Still adjusting to the time change and woke early. At around 7 I walked up to Chupis viewpoint. The morning was still cool and the fog/smog hadn't come yet so the air was crisp and cool as I walked past the restaurant stalls just beginning to make breakfast. For the viewpoint I could look over and see Dharamkot. The houses on the hill are so serene and beautiful. It reminds me of a ski town. They must have a lot of concrete here, all the houses appear to be concrete.

At 9 I joined a guided meditation at the Tushita Meditation Center. It was almost exclusively travelers. After, I stayed to help clean and eat free lunch. It was fun to sit around the table with 8 or so people in their 20s and 30s from all over. They had all just finished a 10 day intensive—could be cool to check out next time.

Read at the Tibetan library, then went to English class. We discussed AI and its implications with the Tibetan monks. Very surreal and interesting moment. Some had used AI a little bit, but were a minority.

Got a massage. So cheap!!

Dinner and then cake at Dharma cafe (vegan cafe next to my hostel with a reading area) while I read. Decided to get bus ticket for 2 days from now. Love this town, but itching to get on and see more of India.

October 18 | Dharamshala

Actually writing this one the next day. Hiked about 4.5 hours to Triund Hill Lookout. It's wild that there are tea shops all the way up there—it would be like a snack stand on the top of Mt. Olympus or Timpanogos in Utah. At some point I just started feeling the itch to move on to another city. Made one last stop at the Tibetan Library to say goodbye (sadly the owner was gone) and booked a bus ride for that night. Had to pack up in about 40 min.

Bus was soooo bumpy. I was in the back and had the row to myself, but I couldn't enjoy it much because of being literally levitated every few minutes.

Hit the travel wall. The contrast of leaving peaceful Dharamshala to hectic Amritsar doesn't help. Missing home. Feeling alone. Just wanting peace and solace but basic things like toilets, showers, getting around, and smells give me no peace.

At times I feel like I'm taking advantage of this country. $3 taxis. 80 cent breakfast. $5 hostel. But they also take advantage of me. I know I've gotten ripped off. I also relish tipping. An extra 100 IRP means nothing to me, but it might be a 50% tip.

America really is an amazing country. For all its flaws, there's so much more wealth, comfort, cleanliness—I can't wait to go back with new perspective.

October 19 | Amritsar

Day started off slow. Not only feeling traveled out but missing America after the hectic walk through a new city last night. Made some space that morning for those feelings.

BYU game started around 6:30 AM! I watched most of it. Awesome win against the U!

I thought today would be slow and easy, but actually turned into something. I realized that I knew Jalianwalla Bagh from the Slaughter at Amritsar scene in the movie, Gandhi.

I started by going to the Partition museum. The tales of the British abuse and the terror traded between Indians and Pakistanis was sobering. I have picked up on the present day tension talking with friends.

Jalianwalla Bagh has been transformed into a beautiful memorial park. You can see the well where 120 bodies were fished out and sections of brick walls still showing bullet marks.

As often happens, an Indian man struck up a conversation. He immediately was kind and interesting to talk to. For 30-40 minutes he explained Indian geopolitics over the last 50 years and asked good questions about America. He invited me to visit the Pakistani border at Wagah with him tomorrow and then watch the fireworks at the Golden temple for Diwali.

I went to see sunset at the temple and these two 15 year olds struck up a conversation. They said they were also going to the temple and would show me around. These two missionaries had no misgivings about asking "do you want to pray?" and showed me how to kneel, press my head to the ground and then "say what you want."

My young guides at the golden temple

My fears of hygiene were about to be abused. We bathed our feet in the communal pond and sprinkled water on our heads. Then we joined a queue to receive a naked handful of some sweet mush. Ashmeet and Sumar told me they like to come here because they feel peace. It was delightful to have these kids as my guides. We got lots of pictures. After going through the temple we went to the communal cafeteria (langar) and sat on the floor while Sikh volunteers walked around ladling soup/stew and handing out chapatis. Pretty amazing this operation is going 24/7. Afterward my Virgils showed me their workout pics, asked about movie stars, got my instagram and bought me ice cream. I guess what has been striking is the level of goodness in strangers and how we seem to find each other. The whole reason I'm in Amritsar is because the worker at my last hostel struck up a conversation and told me he's from here.

Oh, funny thing. You have to remove your shoes in the temple. It's quite beautiful to be in a crowd of strangers but connected through the humanity of bare feet. However, I'm wearing my Moonlight 10k shirt from Palo Alto and when the guy guarding the entrance saw pictures of shoes on it, he made me turn it inside-out. lol.

October 20 | Amritsar

Last night I talked with a Sikh guy at the hostel who told me the best time to visit the temple is 3 AM. "The people there are spiritual." I made it by 4:50 and joined the small groups laying on the floor to sleep. This proved challenging because the floor is stone and they're blasting music over the PA. Laying there, surrounded by other people, vulnerable yet feeling part of a community was a special feeling.

The sun gradually rose and the dark blue turned to light. I went back to the hostel to sleep. I learned that Sikhism is a middle ground to Islam and Hinduism. They share holidays with both religions and they believe all are equal—men, women, races. Feeding free meals at their temples is an important part of their ministry. They carry the dagger to protect the truth and the helpless.

I met Ratan (my friend from the day before) at the langar for lunch because he was volunteering. While he ate, I casually acted like I knew what I was doing and joined a table of women rolling out chapatis. There was some tsk-ing and side glances, but no one made me leave. After 15 minutes I did a get me outta here walk and met up with Ratan. I felt like I'd just gotten away with something. I did. Horrendously oblong shaped chapati.

Ratan and I went to Wagah for a daily ceremony at the Pakistani border. Because I'm a foreigner, Ratan was able to talk our way into VIP seating with family members of those who had lost lives in the conflicts past. The whole ceremony was political grandstanding to the extreme. There used to be a handshake, but after a border attack a few years back, no more. Now it's this weird semblance of unity. Calling the guard at the same time. Riling up the crowd to drown out the other side. Soldiers from each side trying to out-high kick each other (seriously). Making aggressive arm signals like an angry 2 yr old wrenching something. Ratan felt national pride, I'm sure, but it's not my country and I felt a bit sad. Is this what coming together devolves into if we aren't careful? It didn't really feel like my place to judge, both sides have strong feelings and hurt feelings.

After the hour-long taxi back we grabbed some McDonalds and chatted. We talked about my plans for the trip and I realized booking trains might be harder than I thought. Also thinking I might skip Chennai and spend a week in Goa. I was mostly going because I have a friend from there, but just doesn't feel like it will fit in this trip. Realized that in Amritsar, Diwali is celebrated a day later and I'll miss the fireworks 😟

October 21 | Amritsar

Packed up and headed to a little breakfast spot I found. It's like a stuffed flat bread baked until crispy and covered in ghee (it's called Kulcha and it's a dish special to Amritsar). As normal a guy struck up a convo.

Went to the temple to wait for Ratan and just sat outside enjoying the sun. An old Sikh farmer tried talking to me. He seemed delighted to just be talking with a foreigner. He clasped my face with both hands, touched my shoes, asked me to grab beers. I could barely understand him and he was like 80. I kindly declined and hoped he had washed his left hand.

Ratan and I grabbed a bite and went to the municipal library. It is a delapidarium for sure with no modern books and all the covers covered with red duct tape. Ratan read a religious magazine and I read the 1983 Guinness book of world records. We said goodbye and he got me a cab to the train station. He had been such a good friend and made my stay here such a delight.

Saw two mating dogs stuck together. Disturbing. Apparently this is common. Ratan told me that limited dog reproduction is a problem the country is trying to figure out. I suggested they could hand out free condoms, and he was very confused as to how that would work or how dogs would be able to use them. Subtleties lost in translation…

October 22 | Jaipur

Train got to the station early and I scrambled to get packed and hop out. It took me a minute to realize that while this was the right city, I was a long way from my stop. I jumped back on right as the train started moving again. There were no guards at the doors checking tickets and the train doesn't wait around until everyone is boarded. Leaping on the moving train at the last minute—it was just like in the movies.

I'm glad I'm not doing trains anymore this trip. It was cramped and painful. Also the smoke in the air from who knows what was giving me allergy stuff and I forgot to bring my kn-95 masks.

Long legs in small spaces

Before the hotel, I stopped at a cafe and met a group of teenagers. I asked to sit with them and we had a fun time talking about whatever. They bought my sandwich and gave me the 21 IRP in change which is apparently auspicious.

My friends who bought me breakfast

The Jaipur Inn where I booked a room is charming and perfect for my stay. A boutique hotel full of family heirlooms. Best of all—private bedroom. After a nap I went to the observatory to see some fascinating sun clocks. There's something like 20 stone instruments in this huge courtyard that tell you everything from solar placement to planetary motion.

After the observatory I went to the royal palace and then walked home through the bazaar. Sadly just cheap tourist stuff. I was happy to have an early night.

October 23 | Jaipur

This city is more touristy than the others so far, the main clue being that taxis try and charge you more. I allowed myself to get talked into a package deal where my taxi would take me to the Amber Fort and wait an hour to take me back. Stupid. There's tons of taxis up there, each happy to give you a ride or rip off another sucker.

Anyway, Amber Fort was cool, and after I added on a trip to see the monkey temple, which is just a temple where there's lots of monkeys.

In the afternoon I went on the hunt for antiques. Got ripped off, but narrowly avoided getting much more ripped off. Paid $160 (instead of the initial ask of $450) for a vintage (not antique like I was told) lunch box that should have cost $15-30.

The lunchbox

Something I've been thinking about is that both births and rebirths are violent. Pain. First is physical, second is something more emotional or spiritual.

Talked with Kate for an hour. Was feeling rather lonely today. Grateful to be able to chat. Been going through a bit of a rough patch in life. Processing that takes time. This trip hasn't pasted over the hard things. It's like when you've eaten something off and you feel the tectonic plates of your GI shifting. You don't quite know what's happening, but you sense movement and it doesn't feel great. Healing can be like this sometimes.

October 24 | Jaipur → Agra

Travel day mostly. Had the great adventure of trying to find my bus at the bus "station." A crowded road lined with the usual throngs of tuk-tuks, people, animals, and in this case busses.

On the drive we hit the worst traffic jam I've yet to see. About 10 or so people were out of their cars yelling and gesticulating to try and clear the deadlock. I was honestly amazed that we made it out in about 15 minutes. Driving here is wild—even as a walker, you can rest easy knowing that each person is looking after their own self-interest. Namely, don't hit things.

Agra is the most dirty and polluted city yet. Foul smells. Being assaulted in all 5 senses.

Hostel is run by a very capable manager, Moses. He recommended a rooftop cafe with a great view of the Taj, and very mediocre food.

Toni keeps calling and wants to get together. I try to be unresponsive but he persists. He's going to meet me in Agra before his trip to Africa. Honestly don't want to—I'm uncomfortable with the lengths he's going to to see me. Maybe he just really excited to have a friend?... Can't stop thinking he's going to ask me to transport money or drugs.

Unrelated to Toni, I started the morning with a meditation, trying to regain some equanimity. I want to find that space where I feel peace, grace for myself and others, and a sense that I'm where I need to be right now. I'll take that as my mantra.

Looking forward to the beach! These weeks of city life is not my jam. Good data points for future travel. Sat at the cafe with a really nice British guy from the hostel. Our career questions are very similar and it was nice to chat.

October 25 | Agra

Sunrise at the Taj Mahal

Basic tourist pic.

FaceTiming my brother

Our guide Moses

Akbar's tomb

Morning started early! Left the Hostel at 5:15 and our capable and funny host, Moses, gave a fantastic tour at the Taj Mahal. With a big site, the paid tour is worth it! Me and Eyal (the British guy at the hostel) enjoyed the tour so much we convinced Moses to do a second tour with us at Agra fort. But not before we all had a delicious breakfast. Moses took us to a local joint.

Moses was not only interested, educated and funny, but kept dropping "history mysteries" and wisdom bombs:

Money, money, money. You cannot eat money.

India is a beast. If you accept it, it will accept you. Otherwise it will eat you.

Accept India the way it is. The good, the bad and the ugly, and it will accept you back. Then you have a romance.

Tours were great, but I was wiped by noon and didn't think I could make it through the day. Eyal and I freshened up at the hostel and then, feeling a bit better, headed back out in the tuk-tuk Moses helped us book for the day. We hit a bunch of sites: Sikh Temple for some enthusiastic music and lunch, then Akbar's Mausoleum, baby Taj Mahal, the Taj Mahal nature walk, dinner and then back to the hostel. Man I feel really satisfied with such a full day.

Each of these sites had such amazing and intricate stonework. The Akbar mausoleum had a crazy echo, and the Taj Mahal really was better than I imagined. It's just hard to capture its scale.

I was right about Toni. Over text he asked if I could meet him and loan him $200. See ya!

A very exciting part of the day was having a gastric emergency and using a bathroom with no toilet paper. Did the old bucket of water method… actually worked pretty well! Glad to have gotten that out of the way, so I'm not so scared of it.

Indian bidet

With all of my germaphobiness, I'm always amazed to see kids walking around the streets in bare feet.

October 26 | Varanasi

When the bus arrived at 1 AM, I climbed into my blissfully private sleeper compartment, shut the sliding door, and closed the curtains for the ride.

After checking into my hostel, having a shower and changing, I took a moment to compose myself. It just feels hard to go out and face something new sometimes.

I started with a Hindu temple which was VERY confusing to get entry to. Online said it was free, but I was directed to buy a ticket at a city building, after which me and two Europeans were given a semi-private tour. Strange.

Next I went to Manikarnika Ghat where families bring their deceased for cremation. There was something like 10 pyres in various states of burning. A new pyre is constructed for each body, which, after being immersed in the Ganges is laid on top.

The family does it which was meaningful in a number of ways. How would it be to handle your dead and come to terms with death in that way. Secondly it shows how ordinary death is. The family I watched wasn't what I would call adept at carrying a limp body. Who would be? Their attempt involved grandpa getting dropped and rolling off the 3 ft high pyre onto the ground. Dad yelled something in Hindi.

I watched as the selected son (they have a shaved head, dressed in white, and bathed in the Ganges) started the fire and it began to consume the body.

It's apparently bad karma to cry as it upsets the deceased person's soul. There was movement, teamwork, an objective, a last unification in this person's honor. But no tears. If anything, good spirits.

Next I went to Dashashwamedh Ghat for the evening Aarti. It didn't seem too crowded at first, but then again it didn't start for a while. I waited. And waited. And waited. An hour and 15 minutes later after I was already quite tired of standing and my back was killing me, it finally started. There were at least 5000 in the audience crammed around or in boats on the water. Many people touching me—resting an arm on my leg, or in the case of a little kid, standing behind me and resting his chin on my head.

I found myself quite perturbed by all the sales attempts through the course of the day. I don't like ignoring or shutting people out, but I also like some boundaries.

Christine and Peter (aunt and uncle) were in one of the boats, and while we didn't see each other she sent me a photo she took and I could see myself in the crowd.

October 27 | Varanasi

Started the morning off early (5:15) for a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges. Turned out I was the only one so it was a private tour, which was nice, although I ended up paying for it. Something about floating on the water is so serene and it adds an air of adventure to whatever it is you're doing. We saw a number of the Ghats, including Manikarnika and I got to admire a couple miles of beautiful waterfront buildings. The highlight was completely unexpectedly parking next to Christine and Peter's boat. We waved, yelled I love you's and snapped some photos. That made my day.

I was feeling like a bit of a homebody after I got home. After my boat tour I had walked along the Ghats for 30-45 minutes, which was all I really wanted to do, so I went home and had a nap. After that I went on a breakfast crawl sampling menus at 3 places within a one minute walk of my guest house. I loved the rice pudding at the Mona Lisa cafe. Raisins, cashews and a delightful mix of spices. I went out and walked again in the evening, but spent most of the afternoon and evening watching YouTube. Why shouldn't I? Sometimes you need a change of pace. However, it is hard to give myself space to do that.

October 28 | Varanasi → Goa

Travel day. Raj, my ever attentive host at the Ganga guest house (he made me toast and a plain omelette each morning for breakfast, which would have been more disappointing had he not been so earnest) helped me arrange a taxi to the airport. Perhaps it's all the downtime one has in the airport, but I've been feeling a real craving for connection. I've tried to allow myself to feel that. I read my journal. I texted about 15 friends and family and had conversations with a few.

I'm hoping to use this week on the beach to do some soul work. I'm realizing that it's really not worth spending my life doing things others will think are cool. I'll be much happier if I just figure out what I like and riff on that. So what are those things? What ideas do I have so far? I hope I find some new (or familiar) avenues, clearing of some emotional fog and a little more in-tuneness with what I want.

I'm grateful for each thing I've recorded in my journal. Even short entries that felt insufficient in the moment provided a treasured window to the past for me now.

I'm on a 50 min Indian Air flight and they managed to feed us all a snack—like a hot snack. This is so much better than drinks, which like don't even happen on 50 minute flights. Airplane food is always so good.

October 29 | Goa

Woke up and the first order of business was to find the beach. Partly in my quest to be more phone-less this week, and partly out of convenience, I took a quick glance at the path to the beach and set out. I managed to find my way there but it took a while. Wandering around Palolem, it was a mix of rentals, restaurants, touristy trinket shops, money changers, etc. Pretty much the same things I've seen everywhere else, but much more catered to tourists. I gotta say I'm a bit disappointed. I was hoping for a virgin beach with a few locals. Ironic, because I'm a tourist. This is the world.

The beach is nice, big boulders, palm trees, and a cove surrounded by hills.

For lunch I skipped all the 5 dollar tourist meals and found a place to get dosa for 120 IRP—about $1.50.

In the afternoon I set out to the nearby Main Street area to find an ATM. Shoulda checked the weather as I got caught in a downpour. I waited for an hour under a tree only to realize I'd just need to get soaked. Neither bank had an ATM. Alright then…

Spent the evening journaling and reading Jurassic Park. I'm to a part of the trip that feels hard. Part of me wants to end the trip, but I think this is why I came. I'm remembering Tymi's words at James Island Yoga when we'd get to the hard part about 2/3 of the way through a class: "this is yoga. The practice starts now."

October 30 | Goa

Yoga with the most flexible man I've ever met. Halfway through class he paused to feed a cow that apparently shows up every morning. I wonder why... My shoulders were sore all day after what he had us do.

Enjoyed Dosa for a late breakfast and went home for a nap. Afterward, went to the beach. Swam a bit.

Had Italian at my host's restaurant. It was actually great. Just think, an Indian going all in on Italian and serving nothing else. He had a guest years back from Sardinia who stayed long enough to teach him how to cook and help him create a menu. I dressed up in my button up shirt and made it special. The food was actually really good.

October 31 | Goa

Stayed in bed until about 1 pm finishing Jurassic Park. The power was off and on so I was using the light on my phone which felt like camping. Went for Dosa for lunch and watched a cricket game for a while trying to understand the rules.

Headed out again to find an ATM. On the 3rd or 4th try I finally got it—not all ATMs will take US debit cards. It's hard to describe the joy I had coming out of that hole in the wall ATM room, a huge smile plastered on my face.

Had Italian again, this time it did disappoint hahah, but I give them a pass.

November 1 | Goa

My book for today has been "Stolen Focus" by Johann Hari. It's an interesting read at a time where I'm trying to use my phone less and be unplugged. I haven't managed a cold-turkey approach, but maybe that's not what I want. I've certainly appreciated connecting with people back home.

In between reading (and YouTube :) I took a few walks along the beach. A sand bar had built up and I was able to walk over to an abandoned part of the shore with massive rocks, the foundations of old structures and a great view of the setting sun. There was a group of 4-5 guys also exploring. We all seem to have the same euphoric excitement of exploring abandoned shores. Seems common to humans.

November 2 | Goa

Meaningful fast Sunday where I felt clarity and a flood of insight. Mostly, that exercising my ability to be present will unlock a lot of growth.

Read a Jack Reacher novel from the guest house for most of the evening. During the day I went to the beach and walked. I love the anonymity wearing sunglasses brings. I walked back and forth on the length of the beach and talked to myself. Something about speaking, even a mumble, and I'm able to be so much kinder and really take my own advice. People may think I'm crazy, but at least I'm happy. This time in Goa has been boring at times, and sometimes felt like a waste of time, but it wasn't. It provided open space to pause and explore hopes and feelings.

November 3 | Goa

Read. Walked on the beach.

November 4 | Goa

Same same, but ate more ice cream and caught the night bus to Bengaluru. A highlight of Goa was eating Italian food almost every night.

November 5 | Bangalore

Couldn't check into hostel till 1 pm so had some time to kill. Walked a mile or two to the Labagh Botanical Gardens. It was nice to have long swaths of greenery and some quiet.

Staying at a Draper Startup House. Kind of random to find that on Hostel World, but awesome. Joined the group activity—Pictionary—and talked with a few people after about what they're building. Odd to hear people just build for India, but it's a HUGE market.

November 6 | Bangalore

Getting a bit worried this government shutdown will make my travels home impossible. But it would cost $1900 to change flights (at least) with no promise they won't be disrupted anyway. My hope at this point is that a week will be enough time for things to get back to normal… not feeling optimistic.

Was feeling meh today. It's 3 pm and I'm proud of myself for finding this dope DYU Art cafe. Very hip. I'll come back more. Leaving in a few hours for a percussion concert in the north of the city. I'm 90% considering doing flip phone when I return. I hope there will be a way to make it happen in a way that doesn't disrupt work.

Ok, percussion concert was dope. Scratched my Carnatic music itch for sure, though I'm glad I brought ear plugs.

On the way home, my Uber driver pulled over on the moderately busy road and put his hazards on. "One minute," he said and jumped out to go take a wiz on the sidewalk.

November 7 | Bangalore

Can't really remember what I did this day. I'm writing a few days behind. Oh wait, I went to the art cafe and then went to see a movie at the mall. It's a different kind of travel to "exist" rather than sight-see.

November 8 | Bangalore

Went to the Konnakol masterclass in the morning. There was some confusion because I wasn't on the list, but a $40 registration fee solved that. The masterclass was not in English, so I picked up what I could—it was still really awesome. I need to work on my subdivisions and fractions!

November 9 | Bangalore

Great to go to church. It's always comforting and cool to see the church functioning all over the world. Many members were converts and I felt there was a special level of authenticity there.

I met a man, around my age, Indian, who was at Deloitte in NC, till he had visa problems and got let go. He's been waiting over a year for a new visa and working on building some projects/startup ideas on his own. I told him about the Draper Startup House and he was really grateful for the connection.

Went to airport to fly to Delhi.

November 10 | Delhi

I forgot how crazy this city is. Slept very late (1:30 pm) trying to start my adjustment back to US time. Walked around a while and realized that some of the main sites are closed on Mondays so went to India Gate.

At the hostel tonight, the new roommate saw my copy of the Book of Mormon and pointed at it, then himself and laughed. He's Argentinian and works remotely so has been traveling for the last 3 years since he had a divorce. It was so meaningful to connect and catch up in a way that only two Mormons abroad can.

While chatting, our other roommates told us to check the news. There was an explosion, likely a bomb, at the Red Fort (where I was going to try and go today). At least 8 people are dead and more injured. Bodies and body parts in the road. Terrible. Maybe I'll just take it easy tomorrow before my flight.

Really excited to be heading home. The last couple of weeks has felt like holding on to just get to the end. I'm trying my best. Grateful for what I've done, and the ways I've pushed myself, and also excited to be done. I've also had some bursts of creative energy and I'm excited to start cracking on some of those projects.

November 11 | Delhi

Today I tried to kick start my time adjustment by sleeping as long as possible. I wasn't exactly sleeping, but I rested until about 2 or 3 and got up. I got some food, bought a book to read (War and Peace) from a funny semi-communist store called "the People's Book Shop." They had a lot of Marx, political books, etc.

I walked around the park, but didn't really want to try and sight see. Was it out of precaution, or did I really just not feel up to exerting? I'm proud of myself and this trip and I learned some valuable insights into what travel and how much I like.

I chatted with a Frenchman in the hostel who is just beginning a 3-month trip! I can't imagine. He asked good questions about my trip and I've been reflecting on how each city was unique and which I liked best. I'm certainly glad to have seen some of the big spots, but I'm really drawn to things more personal. I want to craft a trip in the future where I go with a theme, some specific thing I seek out that can give structure and depth to my interactions. My friend Matthew has been doing that in Japan with puzzles and stamp carving. I'm inspired by that.

Oh I forgot that yesterday I got bit by a dog! Just my luck, on my second to last day! Luckily it was more of a pinch, it didn't go through my pants, otherwise I would have been worried about rabies. I still have no idea why that dog freaked out and snapped at my leg, but it made me skittish around all the dogs I saw after.

In the airport waiting to board. As you can imagine, security was tighter. I had multiple security people ask questions about my stay, and I had to scan my bag two different times. It was a bit annoying because the heavy metal lunch box I bought (errr got ripped off for) in Jaipur got flagged both times. Not only was it a pain to unpack and repack, but it was this painful reminder of how I got swindled. I wonder how long until that sting wears off.